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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.